The thing about Panettone

They call it the “Mt. Everest of bread”, you might be wondering why.  What’s the big deal?  Why is it so difficult to make?  Why is it so expensive?  And, what is it anyway?

At a market, I will describe panettone simply as an Italian sweet bread, but I don’t think that does it justice. 

This Italian Christmas bread/cake/soufflé-ish hybrid is a sight to behold, towering high with a soft crust and a delicate, airy crumb. But oh, the drama behind its creation!

One does not simply decide to make panettone on a Tuesday. It demands days of devotion, a splash of courage, and maybe a sprinkle of madness.

Read on for some holiday inspired entertainment about conquering Mt Panettone!

The Panettone Saga (Cliff notes version – is that still a thing?):

  • In The Beginning: It all starts with a “livieto madre” (aka pasta madre, aka a stiff sourdough starter).  Maintained for days ahead of time, to ensure the proper balance of yeasts and bacteria and avoid a sour flavor in the finished panettone (from the ridiculously long fermentation times). Could you use dry yeast as a shortcut? I mean, I guess you could – but then it’s not really a traditional panettone. And did you even make panettone if you didn’t suffer?
  • The Ingredients: So.  Many.  Egg yolks.  And Butter.  An obnoxious amount of butter.  Along with the flour, sugar and other inclusions,

The Dough Drama: The dough itself is a diva. It’s finicky, demanding constant attention. One wrong move, and your panettone could collapse like a soufflé.  No really.  And it’s not just one dough.  It’s TWO.

The Double Rise: Not only do you need to mix one dough (primo impasto, if you want to learn Italian), there is also a second dough (secondo impasto).  It goes something like: mix dough one, let rise for 15 hours;  put it back in the mixer;  add more egg yolks and butter;  Question your life choices; mix for 30 minutes and hope it all works out.  The second rise is a critical moment. The dough needs to expand dramatically, but not explode.

  • The Bake-Off: Finally, the moment of truth: the bake. The oven becomes a stage, and panettone is the star. Will it rise to the occasion? Or will it sink into oblivion? You will not know the answer until:
  • The Cool-Down: You think it’s done when it comes out of the oven?  Nope.  You have to skewer it and HANG IT UPSIDE DOWN for what seems like an eternity.  Tip-toe past the racks with the hanging panettone you just spent 3-4 days prepping, mixing and babying – or else.

But Why All the Fuss?

Despite the drama, panettone is worth every minute of the struggle. Its sweet crumb, studded with dried fruit, nuts, or chocolate, is the perfect holiday treat. And let’s be honest, who doesn’t love to be a Holiday Hero and show up to a party with a panettone!


Tips for Panettone Enjoyment:

  • Toast or warm it lightly: Brings out the flavors and adds a delightful crunch.
  • Pair it with something bubbly: Prosecco, sparkling wine, or even a good quality sparkling cider.
  • Share it with loved ones: Panettone is meant to be enjoyed with friends and family.

So, this holiday season, embrace the drama, savor the sweetness, and enjoy the magic of panettone!

Happy Holidays!

Leave a comment